FAQs
Frequently Asked Questions
FAQs
What are recumbent cycles?
Recumbent cycles, often affectionately referred to as “Bent” bikes, get their name from the seating position. Rather than sitting on a Recumbents come in many shapes and sizes. For bikes, the most common configurations are LWB bike (long wheelbase typically 65-71 inches), CLWB bike (compact long wheelbase - or, as I'm sure you figured out already, medium wheelbase 46-64 inches), SWB bike (short wheel base 33-45 inches), delta trike (one wheel in front for steering and two in back supplying the power, typically rather upright in appearance) and tadpole trike (two wheels in front for steering and one in back for supplying the power, typically lower to the ground looking and acting very sporty). They can have over seat steering (OSS) or under seat steering (USS). The type of recumbent you should ride depends somewhat on what kinds of cycling you want to do, but mostly on which configuration feels the most comfortable to you while riding.
Recumbent cycles, often affectionately referred to as “Bent” bikes, get their name from the seating position. Rather than sitting on a Recumbents come in many shapes and sizes. For bikes, the most common configurations are LWB bike (long wheelbase typically 65-71 inches), CLWB bike (compact long wheelbase - or, as I'm sure you figured out already, medium wheelbase 46-64 inches), SWB bike (short wheel base 33-45 inches), delta trike (one wheel in front for steering and two in back supplying the power, typically rather upright in appearance) and tadpole trike (two wheels in front for steering and one in back for supplying the power, typically lower to the ground looking and acting very sporty). They can have over seat steering (OSS) or under seat steering (USS). The type of recumbent you should ride depends somewhat on what kinds of cycling you want to do, but mostly on which configuration feels the most comfortable to you while riding.
Are recumbents comfortable?
Absolutely. Due to the reclined seating position, you are not hunched over the handlebars like on a normal bike. Your weight is not resting on your arms, so you eliminate all the strain and pain from your hands, wrists, arms and shoulders. Since you are sitting in a position facing front, you don't get the neck strain so common with normal bikes, plus you have a better view of your surroundings at all times. You are sitting in a seat with back support, not balancing on a little wedge of hard plastic. That means no more chafing in those tender spots.
Absolutely. Due to the reclined seating position, you are not hunched over the handlebars like on a normal bike. Your weight is not resting on your arms, so you eliminate all the strain and pain from your hands, wrists, arms and shoulders. Since you are sitting in a position facing front, you don't get the neck strain so common with normal bikes, plus you have a better view of your surroundings at all times. You are sitting in a seat with back support, not balancing on a little wedge of hard plastic. That means no more chafing in those tender spots.
Are they difficult to ride?
No. It may take you a little time to get used to the feel and handling of the bike. There are variations in handling just as there are in uprights- some are fast, twitchy racing models and others are smooth, stable touring models. Be forewarned though, recumbents use different muscles, so even if you are a very fit upright rider, you may experience climbing hills a bit slower than you're used to until you develop the new muscle groups. Until your muscles develop it is recommended to do a lot of "spinning" when you climb hills. Spinning refers to selecting a lower gear and spinning the pedals around faster rather than straining your muscles by trying to use power strokes with your legs. Spinning is recommended for all new recumbent riders for the first few weeks.
No. It may take you a little time to get used to the feel and handling of the bike. There are variations in handling just as there are in uprights- some are fast, twitchy racing models and others are smooth, stable touring models. Be forewarned though, recumbents use different muscles, so even if you are a very fit upright rider, you may experience climbing hills a bit slower than you're used to until you develop the new muscle groups. Until your muscles develop it is recommended to do a lot of "spinning" when you climb hills. Spinning refers to selecting a lower gear and spinning the pedals around faster rather than straining your muscles by trying to use power strokes with your legs. Spinning is recommended for all new recumbent riders for the first few weeks.
Do they do hills?
Yes, they "do" hills. Some people think that because you can't stand on the pedals, that you can't ride up hills. Depending on how steep a hill you're climbing, you may need to shift into a lower gear and "spin" your way up the hill until your new bent biking muscles develop. Even though you can't stand on the pedals and use your weight to propel yourself up the hill, you do have the advantage of having your back braced against the back of the seat. This lets you use your quads a bit more than normal cycling, but after they get used to your new bent bike, you'll find them plenty powerful enough. Usually you can keep up with some of the upright riders, and if any time was lost climbing, you will make up for it on the down hills and flat ground.
Yes, they "do" hills. Some people think that because you can't stand on the pedals, that you can't ride up hills. Depending on how steep a hill you're climbing, you may need to shift into a lower gear and "spin" your way up the hill until your new bent biking muscles develop. Even though you can't stand on the pedals and use your weight to propel yourself up the hill, you do have the advantage of having your back braced against the back of the seat. This lets you use your quads a bit more than normal cycling, but after they get used to your new bent bike, you'll find them plenty powerful enough. Usually you can keep up with some of the upright riders, and if any time was lost climbing, you will make up for it on the down hills and flat ground.
What about commuting in traffic?
You'll gain two advantages when commuting in traffic on a recumbent. First, in your more upright seating position, you are facing front as you ride, making it much easier to keep tabs on the road, traffic and road hazards around you. Second, due to the unique shape you present when riding a recumbent, you catch the attention of drivers much more than normal cyclists that drivers often fail to see.
For more info on commuting and touring, please see our Commuting and Touring page.
You'll gain two advantages when commuting in traffic on a recumbent. First, in your more upright seating position, you are facing front as you ride, making it much easier to keep tabs on the road, traffic and road hazards around you. Second, due to the unique shape you present when riding a recumbent, you catch the attention of drivers much more than normal cyclists that drivers often fail to see.
For more info on commuting and touring, please see our Commuting and Touring page.
Are they faster?
Well, this is very controversial. In the IHPVA sanctioned events, all the land speed records are held by recumbent or semi-recumbent designs. The real question you are asking is, will you be faster on a recumbent?
The answer is: "maybe". There are so many factors involved; how long you've been riding, how long you've trained on the recumbent, style and weight of the bike, topography - hilly, mountainous, flat. Since the biggest factor limiting speed is aerodynamic drag, if you want to go really fast, use a recumbent with a well-designed fairing or a full body. In this case, the answer is YES, they are faster.
Well, this is very controversial. In the IHPVA sanctioned events, all the land speed records are held by recumbent or semi-recumbent designs. The real question you are asking is, will you be faster on a recumbent?
The answer is: "maybe". There are so many factors involved; how long you've been riding, how long you've trained on the recumbent, style and weight of the bike, topography - hilly, mountainous, flat. Since the biggest factor limiting speed is aerodynamic drag, if you want to go really fast, use a recumbent with a well-designed fairing or a full body. In this case, the answer is YES, they are faster.
How do you steer it?
Well, recumbents have either over seat steering (OSS), or under seat steering (USS). On the over seat steering bents, the handlebars are located at about shoulder height. On the under seat steering bikes, they are located just beneath the seat. If you are sitting on a chair right now, let your hands hang loosely at your side; this is where your handlebars would be. Above seat steering looks more conventional and is therefore sometimes favored by beginners; but USS bents are really no more difficult to control and actually offer a more aerodynamic line.
Trikes work much the same way, with OSS or USS steering. OSS steering is more common with delta style trikes, and USS with tadpole trikes.
Well, recumbents have either over seat steering (OSS), or under seat steering (USS). On the over seat steering bents, the handlebars are located at about shoulder height. On the under seat steering bikes, they are located just beneath the seat. If you are sitting on a chair right now, let your hands hang loosely at your side; this is where your handlebars would be. Above seat steering looks more conventional and is therefore sometimes favored by beginners; but USS bents are really no more difficult to control and actually offer a more aerodynamic line.
Trikes work much the same way, with OSS or USS steering. OSS steering is more common with delta style trikes, and USS with tadpole trikes.
Are recumbent bicycles a new invention?
Recumbents have been around since the mid 1800's with the Macmillan Velocipede and the Challand Recumbent. In 1933 Charles Mochet built a supine recumbent named the "Velocar". Between the years of 1933 and 1938 pro racer Francois Faure, while riding the Velocar, set several speed records for both the mile and kilometer. In Paris on July 7, 1933, Francis Faure broke the 20 year-old hour record of 44.247 km. by going 45.055 km.
Unfortunately Faure's hour record created a controversy amongst the Union Cycliste Internationale (U.C.I.), the governing body for bicycle races. In February 1934, the U.C.I. decided against Faure's record and banned all recumbents and aerodynamic devices from racing. That is the reason why recumbents have not gained popularity in the racing scene, and since they aren't typically seen in races, the general public has not been as aware of their existence. That is why they have not been mass produced (tens to hundreds of thousands of each model each year) by bike manufacturers.
Recumbents have been around since the mid 1800's with the Macmillan Velocipede and the Challand Recumbent. In 1933 Charles Mochet built a supine recumbent named the "Velocar". Between the years of 1933 and 1938 pro racer Francois Faure, while riding the Velocar, set several speed records for both the mile and kilometer. In Paris on July 7, 1933, Francis Faure broke the 20 year-old hour record of 44.247 km. by going 45.055 km.
Unfortunately Faure's hour record created a controversy amongst the Union Cycliste Internationale (U.C.I.), the governing body for bicycle races. In February 1934, the U.C.I. decided against Faure's record and banned all recumbents and aerodynamic devices from racing. That is the reason why recumbents have not gained popularity in the racing scene, and since they aren't typically seen in races, the general public has not been as aware of their existence. That is why they have not been mass produced (tens to hundreds of thousands of each model each year) by bike manufacturers.
What are the different styles?
The most noticeable difference between the different styles is the length of the bike. There are long wheelbase (lwb), short wheelbase (swb), and compact long wheelbase bikes (clwb) which are really just medium wheelbase.
The most noticeable difference between the different styles is the length of the bike. There are long wheelbase (lwb), short wheelbase (swb), and compact long wheelbase bikes (clwb) which are really just medium wheelbase.
Trikes come in two basic styles: delta and tadpole. Delta style trikes have two wheels in back and one in front and typically have a long wheelbase. Tadpoles have two wheels in front and one in back and typically have a short wheelbase.
Delta trikes are seen more often than tadpoles, primarily because they appeal to older cyclists who don't want to give up riding, but lack the strength to go fast or balance to keep riding a two-wheeler. They are often outfitted with a cargo carrying area behind the seat. In high-speed turns, delta trikes tend to be quite tippy.
Tadpole trikes are much lower to the ground and have a much sportier look. They are performance oriented and and ride much like a go-cart feels. These trikes are often used for touring because they are comfortable to ride for long distances, tow a bike trailer quite nicely, are more stable in high-speed turns than deltas trikes, and they are just plain more fun to ride. Love for tadpole trikes is a highly contagious condition for which the only cure is buying and riding one. Typically the primary symptom is Triker's Grin, which often presents itself immediately after the first test ride on a tadpole trike. Don't say we didn't warn you!
Delta trikes are seen more often than tadpoles, primarily because they appeal to older cyclists who don't want to give up riding, but lack the strength to go fast or balance to keep riding a two-wheeler. They are often outfitted with a cargo carrying area behind the seat. In high-speed turns, delta trikes tend to be quite tippy.
Tadpole trikes are much lower to the ground and have a much sportier look. They are performance oriented and and ride much like a go-cart feels. These trikes are often used for touring because they are comfortable to ride for long distances, tow a bike trailer quite nicely, are more stable in high-speed turns than deltas trikes, and they are just plain more fun to ride. Love for tadpole trikes is a highly contagious condition for which the only cure is buying and riding one. Typically the primary symptom is Triker's Grin, which often presents itself immediately after the first test ride on a tadpole trike. Don't say we didn't warn you!
What is an X-seam measurement?
The X-seam measurement is used to determine which size of recumbent to purchase, or if the recument is adjustable, it is used to set up the bike or trike.
Why purchase from a dealer?
Recumbent Cycles of Utah prices all its bikes and trikes the same as the factory price through the internet. However, at Recumbent Cycles of Utah, the price includes shipping, handling, assembly and tuning, so it is an out-the-door price to you. Depending on the recumbent model, shipping, handling and assembly costs can range from about $200 to $400 in addition to the list price when you buy through the internet. The only additional cost you have is sales tax, like every other business in Utah has to charge. In addition, you can get your first tune-up free at either Recumbent Cycles of Utah, or at the Bike Barn in Lehi, Utah. And don't forget that any accessories you purchase with your bike or trike at time of initial sale get installed for free. All these things combined can mean big savings for you when you purchase from a dealer like Recumbent Cycles of Utah rather than buying over the internet.
Recumbent Cycles of Utah prices all its bikes and trikes the same as the factory price through the internet. However, at Recumbent Cycles of Utah, the price includes shipping, handling, assembly and tuning, so it is an out-the-door price to you. Depending on the recumbent model, shipping, handling and assembly costs can range from about $200 to $400 in addition to the list price when you buy through the internet. The only additional cost you have is sales tax, like every other business in Utah has to charge. In addition, you can get your first tune-up free at either Recumbent Cycles of Utah, or at the Bike Barn in Lehi, Utah. And don't forget that any accessories you purchase with your bike or trike at time of initial sale get installed for free. All these things combined can mean big savings for you when you purchase from a dealer like Recumbent Cycles of Utah rather than buying over the internet.
Why are test rides so important?
Every recumbent bike or trike is different. You need the opportunity to try a variety of types and models to get one that feels the most comfortable to you and that best meets your needs and desires. At Recumbent Cycles of Utah we believe this is the most crucial part of investing in a fine human-powered recumbent vehicle. We try to keep all the most wanted models in stock all the time. Sometimes we fail, but not often. If we don't have the standard version of the recumbent bike or trike from the manufacturers we represent in stock when you come to the shop to purchase, we'll deliver it to your home for free as soon as we receive it from the manufacturer and get is assembled and tuned. You won't have to make a second trip. (Please note that custom color and factory-installed option orders are excluded from free delivery.)
Every recumbent bike or trike is different. You need the opportunity to try a variety of types and models to get one that feels the most comfortable to you and that best meets your needs and desires. At Recumbent Cycles of Utah we believe this is the most crucial part of investing in a fine human-powered recumbent vehicle. We try to keep all the most wanted models in stock all the time. Sometimes we fail, but not often. If we don't have the standard version of the recumbent bike or trike from the manufacturers we represent in stock when you come to the shop to purchase, we'll deliver it to your home for free as soon as we receive it from the manufacturer and get is assembled and tuned. You won't have to make a second trip. (Please note that custom color and factory-installed option orders are excluded from free delivery.)
What is cross-chaining, and why should I care?
Cross chaining is when you use gears that make the chain twist from the inside gear on the front to the outside gears on the back, or from the outside gear on the front to the inside gears on the back. Another way to think of it is when the chain is routed from the front large sprocket to the rear large sprocket, or from the front small sprocket to the rear small sprocket. If you think in terms of gear numbers, cross chaining is being in 3rd gear in front and 1st gear in back, or in 1st gear in front and 9th gear in back.
Why should I care? If your chain isn’t long enough, cross chaining large-to-large can cause the rear derailleur to be unable to provide enough slack in the chain causing it to bind up. This can damage the rear derailleur, chain and sprockets. Even if your chain is long enough to be routed that way, it stresses the chain links resulting in faster chain wear. If your chain is too long, then cross chaining the other way can cause the chain to droop, sometimes even dragging on the ground, and the rear derailleur may end up folding the chain back on itself resulting in chain and derailleur damage. This form of cross chaining can also wear your chain out prematurely.
On many recumbent bikes and trikes the chain is very long, so you may think cross chaining is okay. However, since on most recumbents the chain routes through idler wheels or chain tubes, cross chaining can add to the wear and tear of those components as well.
Okay, so now you know what cross chaining is and why it is not good for your bike or trike. How should you use your gears?
The simple way to remember correct gear choices to keep from cross chaining is this: inside-to-inside, middle-to-middle and outside-to-outside. Think of the frame of your bike or trike being the “inside” position. So as shown in the diagram, when you are on the small sprocket in front (the inside which is 1st gear) then you should be in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear in back (also the inside sprockets). When in 2nd gear in front, the middle sprocket, then the best gear choices for the rear are 4th, 5th or 6th gear, which are the sprockets in the middle. And, of course, that means that when you are on the outside sprocket in front, which is 3rd gear, then you should be on the outside sprockets in the rear as well, which would be 7th, 8th or 9th gear. On most cycles when you are in 2nd gear in front, or on the middle sprocket, it is safe to use any gear in back. For that reason, most riders leave the chain on the middle chain ring in the front and do most of their gear shifting using the rear derailleur. They reserve the small sprocket in front (1st gear) for hill climbing and the large sprocket in front (3rd gear) for riding fast.
Cross chaining is when you use gears that make the chain twist from the inside gear on the front to the outside gears on the back, or from the outside gear on the front to the inside gears on the back. Another way to think of it is when the chain is routed from the front large sprocket to the rear large sprocket, or from the front small sprocket to the rear small sprocket. If you think in terms of gear numbers, cross chaining is being in 3rd gear in front and 1st gear in back, or in 1st gear in front and 9th gear in back.
Why should I care? If your chain isn’t long enough, cross chaining large-to-large can cause the rear derailleur to be unable to provide enough slack in the chain causing it to bind up. This can damage the rear derailleur, chain and sprockets. Even if your chain is long enough to be routed that way, it stresses the chain links resulting in faster chain wear. If your chain is too long, then cross chaining the other way can cause the chain to droop, sometimes even dragging on the ground, and the rear derailleur may end up folding the chain back on itself resulting in chain and derailleur damage. This form of cross chaining can also wear your chain out prematurely.
On many recumbent bikes and trikes the chain is very long, so you may think cross chaining is okay. However, since on most recumbents the chain routes through idler wheels or chain tubes, cross chaining can add to the wear and tear of those components as well.
Okay, so now you know what cross chaining is and why it is not good for your bike or trike. How should you use your gears?
The simple way to remember correct gear choices to keep from cross chaining is this: inside-to-inside, middle-to-middle and outside-to-outside. Think of the frame of your bike or trike being the “inside” position. So as shown in the diagram, when you are on the small sprocket in front (the inside which is 1st gear) then you should be in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear in back (also the inside sprockets). When in 2nd gear in front, the middle sprocket, then the best gear choices for the rear are 4th, 5th or 6th gear, which are the sprockets in the middle. And, of course, that means that when you are on the outside sprocket in front, which is 3rd gear, then you should be on the outside sprockets in the rear as well, which would be 7th, 8th or 9th gear. On most cycles when you are in 2nd gear in front, or on the middle sprocket, it is safe to use any gear in back. For that reason, most riders leave the chain on the middle chain ring in the front and do most of their gear shifting using the rear derailleur. They reserve the small sprocket in front (1st gear) for hill climbing and the large sprocket in front (3rd gear) for riding fast.
